Breeding and Raising Crowntails
By: Victoria Stark
Submitted: 8/5/2004
By: Victoria Stark
Submitted: 8/5/2004
(Malcom Tan)
So, is there a difference between breeding and raising a good crowntail as opposed to, say, a Halfmoon?
According to Phil Ngo of Singapore, there are basically no significant differences in the breeding process. 'The (breeders) should be well conditioned to the presence of each other,' he says. 'This could be done by placing a separation between the male and female, be it a compartment or an additional bottle. Leave them together for between 2 to 3 days before releasing them together. However, it is wise to observe that both bettas are really in breeding condition before releasing. This is usually evident from the male building its nest and the female color darkening and showing stripes. If one or the other fails to show these traits, it would be better to abort the breeding as there is a risk that you might lose one or the other.'
But what about the reputation of increased aggressiveness when spawning CT? Is the temperament due to the CT gene itself, or are there other mitigating factors that should be considered?
'It is quite normal for the CT males to be much more aggressive than the HMs because they do not carry the load that the HM usually carries in its finnage, especially its caudal,' explains Ngo. 'As such, the CTs are much faster swimmers, but nature will take its course if both pairs are properly conditioned, and the female will usually survive the mating.'
RAISING CROWNTAILS
So you bit the bullet and put your finest CT pair together, and are now proud to report that you have a tankful of new fry. Well, congratulations! Now what? Do CTs require special water conditions? PH? Additives? Do they have different dietary needs? What's all this about 'curling'?
It is widely recognized that the best CT in the world come out of Indonesia, and has it has been said only half in jest that it can be attributed to 'Magic Indonesian Water'. Notwithstanding anything in bettas to be taken for granted, we can analyze this claim as follows:
Indonesian City Water supply is generally soft water, registering a 3 in a test for General hardness and Carbonate hardness. The water collection points are in the mountain areas of Bogor. Speculatively, the legendary superiority of Indonesian water could also be because there are no indications of limestone caves in the West Java region. Water from the mountanious regions in West Java is mainly made up of alluvial deposits, especially in areas around the reservoirs. Waters in Jakarta, in particular, have a reputation for being good for crowntails.
In addition to soft water, space and consistency are key ingredients to breeding quality show CTs. More so than even the HM, Crowntails require ideal water quality to be maintained throughout their entire lives, or they will be prone to 'ray curling', the #1 bane of CT breeders. Water quality is best maintained in larger containers, and most of the major CT breeders do not recommend anything smaller than a 2.5 gallon tank per single male, with regular water changes and attention paid to perimeters. The fragile ray extensions of the CT are particularly vulnerable to differences in ph, swings and nitrate/ammonia spikes and will quickly begin to deteriorate in form if optimal conditions are not maintained.
Another important factor in raising good Crowns is food. All Breeders in Jakarta use live food for their bettas, and one in particular shared his method of feeding CT fry: 'When the fry hatch, no feeding is done except from what is derived naturally from plants like water lettuce. Daphnia is being fed from as early as a week old. Then when the fry are about a month old they are fed with TBW (Tubifex Worms). TBW are being given to the fry twice daily up to 2 months of age, in small proportions. Once the fry are above 2 months, they are only fed once on TBW. The second feeding is being replaced by mosquito larva (ML). Once the fry are 3 months of age and above they are only fed once a day on ML. There is high usage of Daphnia, TBW and ML because these are basically free - Nature's gift to betta hobbiests. Bloodworms are rarely used because they are not in abundance in Jakarta.'
We mentioned earlier the Bane of CT Breeders: Curled Rays. Yes, CT curling does occur in Indonesia as well, despite the water condition. My Indonesian gurus professed that this is due to the water being too cold or cool. Whatever it is, at the first sign of curling, the first treatment to be administered is to use the sun. Simply expose the curling betta to sunlight for about half an hour daily. If the fish is in a very small container, be sure to monitor his water for overheating.
A more effective treatment, however, is the one touted by the aforementioned Phil Ngo: A water flow system. Phil maintains that somehow the current in the water helps prevent the rays from curling.
According to Phil Ngo of Singapore, there are basically no significant differences in the breeding process. 'The (breeders) should be well conditioned to the presence of each other,' he says. 'This could be done by placing a separation between the male and female, be it a compartment or an additional bottle. Leave them together for between 2 to 3 days before releasing them together. However, it is wise to observe that both bettas are really in breeding condition before releasing. This is usually evident from the male building its nest and the female color darkening and showing stripes. If one or the other fails to show these traits, it would be better to abort the breeding as there is a risk that you might lose one or the other.'
But what about the reputation of increased aggressiveness when spawning CT? Is the temperament due to the CT gene itself, or are there other mitigating factors that should be considered?
'It is quite normal for the CT males to be much more aggressive than the HMs because they do not carry the load that the HM usually carries in its finnage, especially its caudal,' explains Ngo. 'As such, the CTs are much faster swimmers, but nature will take its course if both pairs are properly conditioned, and the female will usually survive the mating.'
RAISING CROWNTAILS
So you bit the bullet and put your finest CT pair together, and are now proud to report that you have a tankful of new fry. Well, congratulations! Now what? Do CTs require special water conditions? PH? Additives? Do they have different dietary needs? What's all this about 'curling'?
It is widely recognized that the best CT in the world come out of Indonesia, and has it has been said only half in jest that it can be attributed to 'Magic Indonesian Water'. Notwithstanding anything in bettas to be taken for granted, we can analyze this claim as follows:
Indonesian City Water supply is generally soft water, registering a 3 in a test for General hardness and Carbonate hardness. The water collection points are in the mountain areas of Bogor. Speculatively, the legendary superiority of Indonesian water could also be because there are no indications of limestone caves in the West Java region. Water from the mountanious regions in West Java is mainly made up of alluvial deposits, especially in areas around the reservoirs. Waters in Jakarta, in particular, have a reputation for being good for crowntails.
In addition to soft water, space and consistency are key ingredients to breeding quality show CTs. More so than even the HM, Crowntails require ideal water quality to be maintained throughout their entire lives, or they will be prone to 'ray curling', the #1 bane of CT breeders. Water quality is best maintained in larger containers, and most of the major CT breeders do not recommend anything smaller than a 2.5 gallon tank per single male, with regular water changes and attention paid to perimeters. The fragile ray extensions of the CT are particularly vulnerable to differences in ph, swings and nitrate/ammonia spikes and will quickly begin to deteriorate in form if optimal conditions are not maintained.
Another important factor in raising good Crowns is food. All Breeders in Jakarta use live food for their bettas, and one in particular shared his method of feeding CT fry: 'When the fry hatch, no feeding is done except from what is derived naturally from plants like water lettuce. Daphnia is being fed from as early as a week old. Then when the fry are about a month old they are fed with TBW (Tubifex Worms). TBW are being given to the fry twice daily up to 2 months of age, in small proportions. Once the fry are above 2 months, they are only fed once on TBW. The second feeding is being replaced by mosquito larva (ML). Once the fry are 3 months of age and above they are only fed once a day on ML. There is high usage of Daphnia, TBW and ML because these are basically free - Nature's gift to betta hobbiests. Bloodworms are rarely used because they are not in abundance in Jakarta.'
We mentioned earlier the Bane of CT Breeders: Curled Rays. Yes, CT curling does occur in Indonesia as well, despite the water condition. My Indonesian gurus professed that this is due to the water being too cold or cool. Whatever it is, at the first sign of curling, the first treatment to be administered is to use the sun. Simply expose the curling betta to sunlight for about half an hour daily. If the fish is in a very small container, be sure to monitor his water for overheating.
A more effective treatment, however, is the one touted by the aforementioned Phil Ngo: A water flow system. Phil maintains that somehow the current in the water helps prevent the rays from curling.
